Flower buds, leaves and roots. It may seem odd at first, but those are exactly what to expect from a winter vegetable garden.
While summer crops include lots of sweet, sun-ripened fruit, winter gardens tend to be more earthy, with edibles like broccoli, leafy greens and carrots.
These vegetables don’t take up as much room. Rather than galloping across the garden, they fit well in smaller spaces and containers. Indeed, you can grow your entire winter garden in pots on a patio, provided it’s a spot where the plants get at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight a day.
Cool-season vegetables are also relaxed about planting times. Because many of the leafy greens and root crops grow fast, you can plant them in waves from now through the end of winter.
The Buds
At their most basic, broccoli and cauliflower are nothing more than clusters of stubby flower buds. They are among the largest cool-season edibles, with individual plants growing up to 2 feet tall and wide.
While you’ll see broccoli growing year-round in commercial fields on the Central Coast, the plants are easier to tend during cooler weather. That’s because they bolt — or open their flowers too soon — in warmer weather.
That doesn’t matter much to commercial growers, since they harvest the first big center stalk, then knock down the plants. But at home, it’s easy to extend the harvest. Still pick that first domed head. Then wait for new side shoots to form. They will be smaller, but just as tasty. Your plants should be good for several rounds of side shoots before declining.
Unfortunately, cauliflower is not likely to produce secondary shoots. But you can leave your plants in the ground for a week or so after the first harvest, on the off chance that any shoots show signs of emerging.
Both broccoli and cauliflower prefer the same conditions: good drainage, reasonably fertile soil and regular water. Plant seedlings about 1 foot to 18 inches apart. Expect the main heads for both to mature in about 60 days, with broccoli side shoots appearing for another few weeks.
Few varieties of broccoli and cauliflower are readily available. At local nurseries, seedlings may be simply labeled “broccoli” or “cauliflower.” From seed, however, look for Italian broccoli, Romanesco, which bears heads composed of twirly pyramid-shaped buds in lime green. Cauliflower also comes in purple and light green. There’s even a slow-growing, orange-tinged variety called Cheddar. Maybe it’s just the power of suggestion, but its flavor does seem to deliver a hint of cheese.
The Leaves
Leafy salad greens and spinach are among the easiest, most versatile winter edibles. With their frilly, ruffled and flat leaves appearing in varying shades of green, red, bronze and burgundy, it’s fun to plant them in contrasting rows or in patterns.
From seed, leafy greens may take six weeks to gain enough size to harvest. But seedlings from pony packs or 4-inch pots may be large enough within a few weeks.
Use kitchen scissors to snip the outer leaves. The plants will continue to grow from their centers, allowing you to harvest for a month or more.
There are literally dozens of varieties readily available. I choose mine by how they look, rather than by any perceived difference in flavor. While purists may disagree, I think that since many of them bear such a similar taste, I’d rather go with a pleasing look both in the garden and on the plate.
However, head and romaine lettuces are a little different. Both types take longer to mature — about 2 and a half months — and have a greater range of texture and flavor.
Buttercrunch is my favorite head lettuce. It truly has a buttery, crunchy taste. And I’ve found that it’s okay to harvest some of the outer leaves while waiting for the heads to develop. Braveheart is a crisp Romaine that has a light-green, rather than white, core.
Larger cabbage heads take longer to mature, with the heaviest varieties, such as the 15-pound King Slaw, taking 3 and a half months. Plant yours soon, to harvest right after the first of the year. Or cut the time in half by planting a petite variety, such as the pretty red and white Salad Delight, which weighs only 3 pounds.
Note that the pretty, frilly-leaved ornamental cabbages, also called cabbage flowers, are technically edible. But they have been bred for color, not taste, and don’t form heads. Stick with traditional head cabbage if you plan to eat it.
Regardless of the type of green, be sure to provide extremely fine-textured, fertile soil with good drainage.
The leafy types need only about 6 inches of soil, and grow well in smaller containers or even trays with drain holes.
Head and romaine lettuce, along with cabbage, need up to a foot of the good stuff.
The Roots
Beets, carrots, radishes and turnips all tend to mature relatively quickly below ground. Meanwhile, above the soil, you can snip some of the foliage to toss in salads or garnish plates.
Very, very loose soil is key. That way the veggies can form properly. Even more important, you’ll be able to harvest them after the soil becomes saturated with rain. If you have heavy soil, grow these edibles in containers, raised beds or mounds.
Also grow all of your root crops from seed. But don’t start them in flats or shallow containers, where they can quickly exceed the depth and become stunted or stop growing. Instead, direct sow them in the garden. And prepare the soil at least a few inches deeper than the expected depth of the root plus its “tail.”
For instance, most beets range in size from a golf ball to an orange and have a tail that’s at least one and a half times as long. Burpee’s Golden Beet, for example, is about 2 inches tall, with a 3-inch tail. That means that your divinely loose soil should be at least 7 to 8 inches deep. Meanwhile, Burpee’s Red Ball Beet grows closer to 4 inches tall and has a 6-inch tail. So the bed should be at least 12 inches deep.
Turnips’ tails tend to be about one and a half times the height of the turnip. Carrots and radishes have greater variability.
Thumbelina carrots form stubby globes just an inch or two across with no tail in sight, while the long, skinny Sugarsnax grows 12 inches deep with another few inches of tail.
Meanwhile, Petite Easter Egg radishes form little ovals only 1 1/2 inch across with tails nearly twice that, while white oriental type radishes, such as Summer Cross, grow more than a foot long, with tails extending a few inches more.
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The In-Betweeners
Some cool-season vegetables don’t fall neatly into the categories of flower buds, leafs or roots.
Bok choy and Swiss chard offer up both leaves and stalks.
Boy choy, also known as Chinese cabbage, is quite striking, with tightly packed, bright-white, upright stalks that bear big, white-veined, oval green leaves.
Swiss chard bears big, crinkly leaves as well. But its stalks steal the show, coming in candyland colors of hot pink, orange, red and white.
Leeks are grown for their tall, succulent stems. Mound loose soil or mulch around the stalks as they elongate, to maintain their ghostly white color and keep them tender.
Kohlrabi is such an oddity that you might grow it just for its crazy look. Its fat stem looks like a white, pale-green or purple tennis ball and tastes like broccoli with a dash of radish. Skinny, round stems emerge from random spots and bear large, crinkly leaves that are similar to kale.
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Seeds of Wisdom
Plant smaller, quick-growing winter crops such as radishes, carrots and leafy greens between slower-growing crops such as broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage. You’ll have finished harvesting the quick crops before the slower growers fill in.
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Visit Joan’s website at www.SantaBarbaraGardens.com, or post a comment by clicking on “Leave a Comment” back up at the top.
October 5, 2010 at 11:36 am
You make me hungry for lettuce!
In honor of impending foot surgery, I am going to leave the vegetable patch fallow.
If you have any recommendations on what amendements could be added in anticipation of spring- I am all ears.
October 5, 2010 at 1:18 pm
Joan,
I have had great luck with kale and mustard this fall. I am growing Red Russian Kale and Southern Giant Curled Mustard. My favorite way to use the kale is in salads and the mustard is great sauted with bacon. I have French sorrel which is a year round producer for salads, etc.. I just planted arugula and mescalun mix for this winter.
My 5’X5′ raised bed produces continually so
I would be interested in your formula for amendments too.
October 5, 2010 at 2:46 pm
Hi Lydia and Carol,
I have 11 raised beds ranging in size from 3’x8′ to 4’x10,’ so always let a few lie fallow over winter.
My amendment “formula” is very informal.
Every month or two, I spread a half-inch to inch layer of grass clippings in the beds (even when they’re planted).
In the empties, I alternate the grass clippings with an inch or two of small, fallen leaves — mostly birch, purple-leaf plum and a little oak — or just spread the detritus that I’ve swept off my back patio or driveway. Whenever it’s ready, I also toss in handfuls of home-made compost. And when my beds get really low, I buy a few bags of redwood compost and actually rototill it in, rather than letting it sit on top.
But most of the time, I just shoot for the same 50:50 mix of nitrogen/green and carbon/brown that I try to achieve in my compost bins by alternating the grass with the leaves.
Also, Lydia, you could grow just a teeny bit of lettuce in a container next to your kitchen door if you can’t hobble far.
And Carol, your kale and mustard both sound beautiful!
Joan
October 7, 2010 at 8:28 am
I am inspired! Thank you!
October 12, 2010 at 12:57 pm
Joan,
This article is, quite simply, the best, most concise, most informative article I have read on the web concerning gardening. You make expertise seem such a push-over. With your flair for overview and the succint, you might consider doing guides for each season.
As you have included no exceptions or qualifiers I am assuming that these details apply to all zones. Mine is Zone 7. We have snow and freezing rain a couple times through the winter, but this region is comparatively mild year round.
My ‘garden’ will take the form of six planters – 2′ rounds, 2′ deep – placed in an open area for access to sun and rain. They will be either on a wide sidewalk, or adjacent. There will be no cold-frame.
Because of occasional snow and ice, would it be more judicious to place my planters on a covered patio facing W/S (allowing four-to-five hours of direct light on sunny days?) These could be watered manually.
If not, and the plantation is situated in the open air, should I plan to mulch heavily with pinestraw as winter advances? Perhaps no mulch will be needed, or if so, there may be an alternative I haven’t considered.
Any advice you might offer will be welcome. By the way, your tips on fertilize, soil conditioning, etc. were very helpful.
I exect to become a disciple of your work. Our apreciation for the initiative and generosity.
Tom
October 12, 2010 at 4:06 pm
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your kind words.
You didn’t mention which state you garden in. But unfortunately, I’m not familiar with zone 7. I’m on the Central Coast of California, which includes zones 10, 9 and (barely) 8.
So cold frames, mulching with pine straw and the like are foreign concepts here.
But I admire your tenacity in attempting to grow vegetables in winter, wherever it is that you are.
Good luck!
Joan
November 5, 2010 at 12:04 am
Hi Joan
I live in Oroville,Ca about 70 miles north of Sacramento in the foothills about 900′ elevation and have red clay soil so I’am gonna put in some raised beds for some veggies this spring….how deep should the beds be while growing watermelons,tomato’s,cucumbers and some strawberry plants?
Also what do you advise to use for soil for these beds?
thank you for your time
Dan
ps I used to live in Goleta next to Isla Vista
in the 70’s and moved to the SF east bay area in 1980, visited there in the late 90’s and couldn’t believe the growth….
November 5, 2010 at 5:55 pm
Hi Dan,
Ideally, you should build your raised beds with redwood planks that are 12″ high, which means you can add new soil that’s 8 to 10 inches deep. You can use a combination of your native soil, new clean topsoil, bagged soil builder, compost and other decomposing organic matter, such as old straw, mushroom compost and shredded leaves. Just make sure that the pieces aren’t too big with whatever you use. Build your beds and fill them soon, and they’ll have time to settle in over winter. You want to end up with a fresh-smelling, loose mix that still resembles dirt but has lots of good organic content. You don’t want to fill the beds only with your native red clay. While it’s probably plenty fertile, it will be way too heavy. And don’t use bagged potting soil. It’s too light and collapses fast.
After you’ve built the frames but before you’ve added the new material, dig down into your existing soil at least to shovel depth, rough it up and turn it over. Add a few inches of the new material and blend it with what you’ve dug up, going as deep as you can. Add another few inches of the new material and mix it all again. Then add the remaining new material and mix it a final time. When you’re done, you’ll have brought up soil from below the existing soil level and worked it in with the new material, resulting in a nice, new mix that’s well more than a foot deep.
That should be perfect for your tomatoes, cucumbers and strawberry plants, all of which you can plant fairly close together. As for your watermelons — since the vines sprawl so much, I wouldn’t plant them in your beautiful new raised beds. Instead, I would just “hill” them: amend the soil in a circle about the size of a trash can lid with the same good stuff, going 8 to 10 inches deep while creating a mound 3 to 4 inches high. Shape a berm around the perimeter to serve as a watering basin. Plant several watermelon seeds on top of the mound, then train the vines outward, like spokes on a wheel.
On another note: if you haven’t been here since the late 90s, I imagine it has changed even more. But fortunately it’s still a wonderful place to garden.
Good luck with yours!
January 6, 2011 at 2:44 pm
With a vision for growing a beautiful, randomly-organized vegetable and fruit “food forest”, several years ago I removed most of my lawn and created mounded beds in the backyard. The beds contain a mix of the native heavy clay soil with wood chips and mulch, from 1-12′ deep.
Over the years I’ve continued to try to build my soil by planting cover crops in the winter and continually top-dressing with compost and mulch. However, my veggies still struggle to grow, especially root crops which like loose soil.
I don’t really like the look of raised beds, but am starting to think my soil will never be as good as I’d like it to be. How many years does it take to transform heavy clay? Is it hopeless?
Thanks,
Shelly
January 10, 2011 at 10:04 pm
It sounds like you’re doing the right things, with adding compost and mulch, and growing cover crops over winter. All three should help to improve drainage and break up your heavy soil.
However, those efforts may take many years to create “vegetable quality” soil, depending on how heavy your soil was to start with. I’m not sure what your objection is to raised beds, versus mounded beds. But in either case, root vegetables have such a minimal footprint that you should be able to easily grow them in a few containers, rather than in the ground.
As to whether your situation is “hopeless,” it seems like a transformation is proving to be an elusive goal. Settling for an improvement may be more realistic.
Also, as an aside, are your new beds really 1 to 12 feet deep, or 1 to 12 inches deep? Because that would make a huge difference in how far along you are now, compared with where you’d like to be.
Good luck!
October 26, 2012 at 6:51 pm
Are there any gardeners near Ceres, Central California? Finally, I started planting seeds earlier. I have five beds planted, with seeds sprouting in four of them. I’m always looking for something new to plant ….
Any suggestions? I’d like to add more Flowers, especially Edible Flowers, Herbs, and Wild Edibles. I just received my Stinging Nettle seeds in the mail today! Will start planting some tomorrow. Still waiting for Dandelion seeds and two kinds of Carnations, and Mustard India Curled.
I’m in Zone #8/14, which is a great Zone for planting in the Fall and Winter. Days are still quite warm, so most of my seeds have sprouted in three to five days.
I still need to find a successful method of fighting the gophers ….
— Jim (Central California)
October 27, 2012 at 11:25 am
Hi Jim,
Going into winter, it’s going to be tough to start annual or perennial herbs from seed. Most are heat and sun lovers and either die in winter (the annuals, like basil) or languish in a sort of suspended animation until spring.
You’re better off shifting to cool-season vegetables, then starting your herb seeds after the first of the year.
1/2-inch aviary wire, 1/2-inch hardware wire and 1/4-inch hardware mesh are your best barriers for gophers.
Good luck!
Joan
November 25, 2013 at 4:15 pm
Joan,
I recently moved from Portland, Oregon to Santa Barbara, and am thrilled to find your website! I’ve been daunted about gardening in such a different climate than rainy Portland, but you are a master of simplifying technique. I have only a small plot for a garden but am ready to jump in. Thank you.
Ann
December 9, 2013 at 3:02 pm
Hi Ann,
Glad I could help!